Shanghai's Lilong

[bhchao]

How many of those row houses called lilong still exist in Shanghai? Anyone been inside those dwellings? Is there adequate plumbing inside a lilong in Shanghai?

Are they similar to Beijing's hutong?

[HedgePig]

I'm not sure if I am thinking of the same thing you mention, bhchao. There are the row houses typically built by the French, English and others in the 20's, 30's and 40's and the slightly more traditional shikumen (dark grey brick with red brick highlights)

There are quite a few of both still left, particularly in Xuhui, Luwan, Jing'An districts but nothing like what there once was. I would guess at least 90% has been raized and replaced with high-rise apartments. Some areas are now "preserved" from development although I am not sure how much that really means.

Most are in poor condition (compared with US or European housing) and occupied by several families. But some have been renovated extensively. I think most have plumbing but a few years back did find a lane backing on to Yu Yuan garden where the night soil was still being collected.

One interesting area to wander around is Tianzifang on Taikang Lu. This is an area where the houses have been retained but developed into shops, restaurants and bars. It's extended greatly gobbling up more and more of the original housing but there is no demarcation so once you reach the last shop you simply carry on down the lane where people are living as they have for a long time, albeit more disturbed by renovation noise than they once were. It's touristy and I'm sure real preservationists wince at the damage done but I quite like it and certainly not as sanitised as the better known Xintiandi. (But to be fair, the success of Xintiandi has in some small way helped raise awareness for keeping at least some of the older houses.)

There are also areas where there are free-standing houses in central Shanghai, also built by the occupying powers. These are often also in poor condition but certainly must have been lovely.

[chrix]

Moved.

[bhchao]

Hedgepig, thanks for your informative reply. The lilongs I were referring to are similar to one shown here:

I heard that although many of the lilongs are in poor condition, they foster a sense of community and intimacy not found in the suburbs, where American-style McMansion developments make people feel isolated.

Is the Shanghai dialect better entrenched in lilong neighborhoods compared to areas with recent building development?

[gato]

Lilong (里弄 or 弄堂) just means alley, a cul de sac from the main street. When the Communists took over, sometimes a building formerly occupied by a single family would be divided and leased to many families. Yes, there was much less privacy in the lilongs. But you certainly were much closer to your neighbors. They were almost like your extended family because there was much less physical separation between you. People now living in highrises, not just in the suburbs, don't really mingle with their neighbors anymore.