A minor Kunming park 昙花寺公园

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Kunming sometimes gets a bad rap in travel forums as not having much to see, as being a place to change trains and pass through quickly on the way to the spectacular mountains of Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La. Living here has given me the opportunity to explore what is actually on offer, but for whatever reason has not been broadly publicized.

 

Yesterday I visited one of our minor parks, Tanhua Temple Park 昙花寺公园, little known to outsiders. I go there a couple times a year. Let me take you along this time. (Remember, you can click the images to enlarge them.)

 

 

 

The entrance is tucked away on a small winding city street, with a bus stop 10 or 15 minutes away. Seems I always have to ask somebody directions, even though I'm nearly a "regular." Admission is 5 Yuan, less if you are a child or free if you happen to be a retired PLA soldier 老兵。

 

 

The park has its own stupa, a tall tower 塔, and a devotional hall with a couple of Buddhas and a score of Bodhisattvas, but the park doesn't have a particularly religious or devotional feel. It's mainly a place for people to get away from the noise of the city, sing, make music, exercise, practice tai chi, play cards, read a book and drink tea. It was built in the reign of the last Ming Emperor, 崇祯 (1628 - 1644.)  Got a facelift in 1981 following an earthquake.

 

Musicians usually play here in groups, but this man was alone. Playing a blue, mournful saxophone, accompanying a recording of mellow big-band swing music. Not at all modern.

 

I sat and listened a while. When he took a break, I complimented him saying, "It sounds like you have practiced that a long time. Very fine song."

 

He replied with a shy smile, "Actually 其实, I've been practicing 47 years and 3 months. I was a junior official 干部 sent on a study trip to the French Sorbonne. Fell in love with Paris. Never completely got over it." 

 

 

This lady was doing some sort of slow exercise-dancing. No music at all. Enjoying the sounds of the birds.

 

 

 

 

People take their children and grandkids here. Plenty of old people too.

 

 

Much of the park is built in the style of a Jiangnan Garden 江南花园, with buildings and winding stone paths close to pools of clear green water. 

 

 

 

 

I arrived after most of the exercise groups had finished, but there were still a few stragglers, such as this chap below. A group of musicians and singers were rehearsing full out nearby. The conductor kept taking them back over places that weren't quite up to snuff. I followed the sound to check them out.

 

 

 

 

Here is the pagoda, 7 stories tall. You can walk inside on the first level, but cannot climb up inside because the stairs aren't safe. A group of small children were playing in the grass outside the tower, under the watchful eyes of two teachers.

 

 

 

Lots of the places where one can sit are near lengthy inscriptions, some historical and some poetic. I struggled to read about ten minutes worth of this one, but only scratched the surface. This whole park is not designed for people in a hurry. If a park could be said to have a message, this one would probably be saying, "Slow down, breathe deeply, pay attention, enjoy your surrounds."

 

Lots of stone bridges, lots of gazebos.

 

 

 

 

Lots of round "moon-gate doors" 月亮门 and similar windows cut in stone walls. Statues and busts of distinguished people who were part of the history of Yunnan. Statesmen and teachers, looking benevolent and wise.

 

 

One of the attractions of this little park is the exhibits of seasonal flowers that they mount a couple times a year. A month or so ago, chrysanthemums 菊花 were at their best, although they are fading now. Last spring I saw an exceptional display of peonies 牡丹。

 

 

 

The flower display area leads into the courtyard of the main temple, the entry of which has a couple dozen carved Bodhisattvas 罗汉。Inside the temple are two large Buddha images 佛像 and many small ones on the walls. One can burn incense, make donations, and pray.

 

 

 

Near the exit, as well as at some other points inside, one catches a glimpse of modern skyscrapers not far away, on the other side of a busy elevated highway  二环路。

 

 

 

Tour groups don't come here and I've never seen this place crowded. Hope it stays that way. One of Kunming's secret jewels.

 

 

[Shelley]

I am going a delicate shade of envious green

 

This is the sort of place I would spend a lot of time, relaxing, reading, listening to the birds and the general hubbub of people and life. A place to sit and embroider or crotchet, practise writing or just contemplate my navel.

 

Thanks for sharing.

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You're welcome, @Shelley -- I do see people knitting and doing needlepoint there. The park is an oasis of calm.

[anonymoose]

I've never spent enough time in Kunming to feel that I've seen all there is to see. On the contrary, I'd like to spend more time there, but alas, like most other people, use it mainly as a connecting point to more remote places in Yunnan.

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@anonymoose -- Hope some day you'll have the opportunity to linger a while. The longer I live here, the more interesting spots I discover.

[DavyJonesLocker]

Ah this brings back memories. I am fairly certain I have been to 昙花寺公园  a way back in 2007. At that time china was a bit of a mystery to me so maybe I need to dig out the old photos to check for sure. I have only been to Kunming twice and really had a nice feel to it. 

 

 

Actually before I came to China, Kunming was my first choice but alas, for one reason or another I ended up in Beijing. Its not a city I am overly fond but as with many people,  work opportunities are often confined to big cities.

[HuayangAcademy]

Thanks for the great tip, 

 

Have you been to the Taoist temple out on Tudong road, 

Great place

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3 hours ago, HuayangAcademy said:

Have you been to the Taoist temple out on Tudong road, 

Great place

 

I'm not sure. Could you tell me where it is? For example, what part of Tuodong Road 拓东路, near what cross street?

[HuayangAcademy]

It's the cross roads of Tuodong and Beijing roads. 

I've also recently heard about the Ma Family Courtyard in central Kunming, 

Seems like another place people don't know about it. 

 

Can't even find it on Google etc. 

From what I've heard it's a beautiful old building with interesting architecture and they have minority dance, singing and tea ceremony etc. 

 

Hopefully visiting Wednesday so can report back!

 

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1 hour ago, HuayangAcademy said:

It's the cross roads of Tuodong and Beijing roads. 

 

Not familiar with it. Look forward to hearing your report. I do know of a nice historical tower 塔 at the corner of Tuodong Road and Baita Road, across from 斜对面 from the 绿洲宾馆 GreenLand Hotel. Pretty sure it's where 白塔路 got its name.

 

Don't know anything about the Ma Family Courtyard, however. Would be interested in your impressions.

 

Welcome to the Kunming Explorer's Club!

 

 

[HuayangAcademy]

We visited this park recently. 

It is a great place and there is also BBQs you can rent and enjoy a BBQ in the park with friends and bring your own food

 

Thanks for the recommendation!

[HuayangAcademy]