Neighborhood tofu: A short practical tour

[abcdefg]

It is with some trepidation that I will try to give you a little background on how tofu is made and consumed here in my part of China (Yunnan, Kunming.) Since it is such a vast topic and I lack expertise, what I did was just walk around my neighborhood wet market and take snapshots of the tofu that was readily available. I'll simply show you the photos and tell you what I can about what they show. 

 

It goes without saying that other types can be found in supermarkets, the result of rigidly standardized large-scale industrial processes. These are nicely wrapped and have ingredients and expiration dates listed on the package. But they often come with flavor enhancers, preservatives, stabilizers, and coloring agents to make them sell better. My 老百姓 neighbors eschew them as "factory food," and find their way to the wet market to buy the "real stuff" instead. 

 

It also goes without saying that tofu differs from place to place within China, and even more so when talking about those from Korea, Japan, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, Burma and so on. These often represent the taste preferences of members of the Chinese diaspora who landed and settled there many years ago. These "foreign tofu's" also often reflect changes made to incorporate local ingredients: coconut milk on such and such island, fish sauce in such and such port, and so on.

 

All tofu starts out as soy milk, extracted with heat from soybeans, that has been acidulated to produce curdling or coagulation into a solid form. That basic raw tofu is then strained and pressed into blocks. It can be pressed a little or a lot, making it thin enough to need to be kept in a pot, or a little thicker, sort of like jello, or a lot thicker and firmer like cheese. (I have oversimplified grievously.) Here's a look at some of that basic raw tofu.

 

(Remember, you can click the photos to enlarge them.)

 

          

 

 

In the two photos above, you can see a color difference between the tofu in the foreground and that in the background. The "whiter" tofu in back is softer; it is called 嫩豆腐 (nen doufu) or "tender" tofu. That in the front is slightly firmer and is called 老豆腐 (lao doufu) or "tough" tofu, though it isn't very tough at all. Some recipes work best with one, some with the other. 

 

 

Tofu vendors frequently sell other things as well, things that are often paired with tofu or things that can easily be made with the same raw materials. Photo on the left shows soy bean sprouts and mung bean sprouts next to the nice lady who sells them. 

 

Bottom left in this photo is a non-tofu item that is often eaten instead of tofu; it's made from bean sprouts that have been processed differently, often with addition of some natural gelatin. Goes by the name 凉粉 (liang fen) around here; in the west, when it can be found, it gets the odd name "grass jelly." In these parts it's usually cut in strips and served cold with a sauce of chilies and scallions. 

 

 

 

Sometimes the tofu is barely solidified at all, being described as "silken." This extremely soft style is known here as "tofu flowers" 豆花 and is used in making several delicious dishes such as 豆花米线 (tofu flower rice noodles) which is one of Kunming's signature snacks 小吃。Douhua mixian 豆花米线 is shown below right. The food stall offers a meatless version or a version with seasoned ground pork. I'm not vegetarian and I enjoy the kind that has meat, as you see here. It is sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and includes pickled chopped greens 泡菜 and several kinds of herbs to achieve a result that is just this side of Heaven. 

 

 

   

 

 

Often tofu is processed instead of being consumed in it's raw, unadulterated state. One of the most common things that is done to it is to press it, removing some moisture and allowing a concentration of flavors. This process is particularly prized when the water with which the tofu has been made tastes good on its own. This is true of the deep Artesian well water of Jianshui  建水 and Shiping 石屏, both ancient cities in SE Yunnan's Honghe Prefecture 红河州。 Here is some of that on display at the stall where I usually buy it:

 

    

 

Not surprisingly, these rectangular sheets of pressed Shiping tofu come in different tastes and textures. You can buy firmer or softer; milder or more flavorful varieties, tailored to your preference or cooking application. Some of this tofu has been allowed to ferment slightly and is formed into small "packets" shown at the rear of both photos above. This tofu is "mildly stinky" 臭豆腐 -- a far cry from the hugely pungent product popular in Taiwan. In the far left of the photo just above, in a white basket, is the notorious "hairy tofu" 毛豆腐, that has a very distinctive look, aroma, and taste. 

 

The photo below left shows another vendor's hairy tofu. Some days it's more photogenic than others. Below right you see a snack stall on the edge of the market where the guy is grilling the small briquettes of stinky tofu to serve hot with a spicy dipping sauce. Some "old tofu hands" first dip the tofu piece in the sauce and then touch it to a small plate of ground chilis for extra punch. You belly up to the bar facing him, sit on a low stool, and eat your fill. He keeps track of your consumption with small colored beans and and the sharp eye of an experienced casino croupier; you settle your account after eating your fill. 

 

  

 

 

Once tofu has been pressed it can be brined and then smoked, as discussed in the recipe posted here yesterday. As you can well imagine, the finished product is affected by the kind of tofu one pressed to start with and then how it was soaked, in what and for how long. Finally, the flavor and texture are further dictated by how it is smoked, over what wood or twigs and for how long. It comes in several shapes, analogous to the way smoked cheese varies: a smoked Edam is not the same as a smoked Provolone. One from this maker may not be exactly like that from his neighbor. 

 

 

  

 

 

Sometimes tofu is deep fried, puffing it up and giving it a golden color. It can then be eaten with a sauce, or served together with dishes that contain lots of gravy, such as red cooked pork 红烧肉。Here below left is some of it coming out fresh from the wok. That's a good time to buy it, instead of later the same day after it has sat around in a plastic bag getting stale. Sometimes tofu-making byproducts are for sale, such as tofu skin that has risen to the top of the pot during processing. It can be air dried or fried, and is usually sold as tofu skin 豆腐皮。(Below right.)

 

 

 

Numerous special local wrinkles exist, such as this vendor who only sells tofu made with the water of a prized mountain spring in NE Yunnan's Xuanwei County 宣威县。It sells for a small premium but there is always a line outside his stall, telling me that it's in high demand. I've tried it, but honestly can't tell the difference. 

 

   

 

 

One part of my neighborhood wet market is "tofu row" with about 25 vendors near each other. Some have the usual fare, and others have exotica. Some make it completely on the premises and others have workrooms nearby where the rent is cheaper. They resupply throughout the day by motorbike or electric scooter 电动车。

 

This vendor makes his on the premises and has a workshop behind the sales area. You can see a tall pot on the stove, in the left corner. Probably has more kinds than anyone else. Unfortunately he is not very forthcoming and doesn't like to chat about his wares. You point and he bags it up; you hand over your money and leave. Not even a thank you or a "Hope you like it, come back for more." 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What I do from a practical standpoint is buy certain tofu staples over and over from the same one or two vendors. Then from time to time I branch out and try new types or new variations on the old types. I often ask the sellers for their recommendations as to cooking methods. They tend to eat a lot of tofu and know a dozen tasty ways to prepare it. Sometimes I try something in a restaurant that I would like to try to reproduce, or watch something being made on TV. Then I consult them and get ideas on how I might be able to do it at home. 

 

Before moving here a decade ago I seldom ate tofu at all; in fact practically never. Now it's something I have about once a week. Good source of protein without many calories and it is definitely economical. For better or worse, tofu has become part of my China life. 
 

Here's a link to the last two tofu recipes:

https://www.chinese-forums.com/forums/topic/56990-addictive-smoked-tofu-青椒豆腐干/ 

https://www.chinese-forums.com/forums/topic/56975-sunday-brunch-tofu-and-eggs-豆腐炒鸡蛋/

[somethingfunny]

Thanks for taking the time

[abcdefg]

You're welcome @somethingfunny.

 

Should probably clarify that I'm not really a tofu evangelist or tofu fanatic. It is just interesting to me as something that one comes in contact with in China that isn't as common in the west. 

 

Passed by the dried tofu snack rack in Walmart a block from my home recently. Saw 50 or 60 different kinds for sale. How many do you usually see in your neighborhood store back in New York or London? Probably not quite that many.

 

I can tell you for sure these are not as popular in Dallas. Bubba is not fond of munching tofu as he rolls down Interstate-10 in his crew-cab Chevy Silverado wearing that tall gray beaver Stetson, lever-action Winchester in the gun rack.

 

  

 

 

[amytheorangutan]

Wow! The wonderful world of tofu! Thank you for the very interesting post. I have never tried hairy tofu before. Wonder what they taste like. 豆花 made into dessert is one of my favourites with ginger sugar syrup and sometimes with cooked peanuts ?

 

 

[abcdefg]

Yes, yes, yes, Amy. That is delicious! I make it with toasted almond slices instead of the peanuts. So refreshing in the summer. Your photos make me want some right now.

 

Tofu works well in sweet dishes as well as in savory ones. 

[Luxi]

6 hours ago, abcdefg said:

another vendor's hairy tofu. Some days it's more photogenic than others.

So it has 'bad hair days', who would have thought!

 

Thanks so much for this introduction to Tofu, it's nicely put together and very helpful.  If I didn't like tofu already, I would now.

[abcdefg]

1 hour ago, Luxi said:

So it has 'bad hair days', who would have thought!

 

Haha! I guess that's a good way to put it!

 

It's fragile. The sellers often keep hairy tofu partly covered so it won't dry out. It always looks better early in the morning. Sometimes they pickle chunks of it in a spicy vinegar sauce, turning it into a pungent condiment, the consistency of cream cheese. That is called 卤腐 here and 腐乳 in other parts of China. Delicious smeared on a steamed hot bun 馒头。

  

   

[Shelley]

Thank you, excellent, the wonderful world of tofu.

 

Why is hairy tofu called hairy, is it hairy? Makes it sound like its got mould growing on it with hairy bits as you sometimes get on mouldy cheese or bread.

 

I have to draw a comparison to cheese again because it is made by causing it to curdle with acid or rennet, it can be soft or hard, squeezed flat, shaped into blocks, and eaten as a savoury, sweet, as a snack or main meal. 

I know it is not like cheese in taste or use, but it seems to contain many of the same processes and forms.

 

I think that China discovered tofu before cheese and never bother to apply the same actions to cow, buffalo, goat etc milk and concentrated on using soy milk.

 

[abcdefg]

2 hours ago, Shelley said:

Why is hairy tofu called hairy, is it hairy? Makes it sound like its got mould growing on it with hairy bits as you sometimes get on mouldy cheese or bread.

 

It is hairy; covered in an exuberant, finely filamentous, off-white color mold. Lends it a distinctive flavor that is sort of an acquired taste. Some days it's easy to see at a glance and other times it requires closer inspection. Here are a couple of photos clipped from the Chinese internet that make the appearance more clear. 

 

 

You're right about there being similarities between tofu production and cheese production, no doubt about it. Cheese is not very popular here in China, though Yunnan makes some good ones both from cow's milk and goat's milk. Here's a little about it:

 

https://www.chinese-forums.com/forums/topic/56709-improving-a-classic-火腿蒸乳饼-steamed-yunnan-ham-and-white-mountain-cheese/?tab=comments#comment-439007 

 

You might like to give tofu a try sometime. It's easy to like. 

 

 

[vellocet]

On 8/10/2018 at 8:42 AM, abcdefg said:

It goes without saying that other types can be found in supermarkets, the result of rigidly standardized large-scale industrial processes. These are nicely wrapped and have ingredients and expiration dates listed on the package. But they often come with flavor enhancers, preservatives, stabilizers, and coloring agents to make them sell better. My 老百姓 neighbors eschew them as "factory food," and find their way to the wet market to buy the "real stuff" instead. 

 

So instead of eating food made in sanitary conditions with regular health inspections, what's better is the "real stuff" is made in backyards by people who have never had any health standards training and don't even wash their hands before starting.

 

On 8/10/2018 at 1:49 PM, abcdefg said:

I can tell you for sure these are not as popular in Dallas. Bubba is not fond of munching tofu as he rolls down Interstate-10 in his crew-cab Chevy Silverado wearing that tall gray beaver Stetson, lever-action Winchester in the gun rack.

 

Wow, that came out of nowhere, didn't it?  A casual classist slur, nice. 

 

You mean people from wildly different cultures aren't fond of weird foods?  Pray tell, how much BBQ brisket or fajitas do the 老百姓 eat on a daily basis?  

[abcdefg]

@vellocet -- Sounds like that hit kind of close to home. Did not intend to step on your toes. 

[vellocet]

On 8/12/2018 at 8:49 PM, abcdefg said:

Did not intend to step on your toes. 

 

Me?  No, I don't drive a truck nor wear a Stetson.  But why the bigoted slur against the working class?  I'm baffled. 

 

You don't punch down.  You never punch down.  Why attack powerless people when there are powerful people that could be targeted with that abuse instead?  Please see: http://www.patheos.com/blogs/slacktivist/2014/07/21/never-punch-down/

 

"Punching down is a concept in which you’re assumed to have a measurable level of power and you’re looking for a fight. Now, you can either go after the big guy who might hurt you, or go after the little guy who has absolutely no shot. Either way, you’ve picked a fight, but one fight is remarkably more noble and worthwhile than the other. Going after the big guy, punching up, is an act of nobility. Going after the little guy, punching down, is an act of bullying."

[abcdefg]

Go make a fuss somewhere else, I have no interest in arguing with you. 

[Bibu]

Exellent tofu intro, sounds the wet market is a huge one, have a tofu row ...

 

normal market has 2 or 3 tofu vendor plus 2 or 3 豆腐制品 vendor, that is a sizable one already.

[abcdefg]

Thanks @Bibu -- That market is a really good one. It's not huge, but does have lots of vendors. It's a pleasure to go there, and fortunately it's just under 10 minutes away from my home by bike. 

 

This is from another small market, a couple blocks in the other direction. It is all street-side, has one meat stall, three vegetable sellers, some carts with fruit and one tofu lady. But even there one can find a pretty decent selection.

 

[vellocet]

3 hours ago, abcdefg said:

Go make a fuss somewhere else, I have no interest in arguing with you. 

 

Stop being a bigot in public and I'll stop telling you you're doing it.  Fill in the blank:

 

_______  is a feeling towards a person or group member based solely on that person's group membership. The word is often used to refer to preconceived, usually unfavorable, feelings towards people or a person because of their sex, gender, beliefs, values, social class, age, disability, religion, sexuality, race/ethnicity, language, nationality, beauty, occupation, education, criminality, sport team affiliation or other personal characteristics. In this case, it refers to a positive or negative evaluation of another person based on that person's perceived group membership.

 

Spoiler

Bigotry

 

[amytheorangutan]

I wonder if the white fuzz in hairy tofu is similar to the white fuzz in tempeh ? 

[abcdefg]

I think it is, Amy. 

[roddy]

@Vellocet.... it's not interesting. Hush. Or go start a new topic that'll be easier to ignore.

[Bibu]

@amytheorangutan  could you reveal where this pic taken? never seem a tofu like this before, it looks  like dim sum made of peanuts and candy...